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Post by kayaker55 on Jul 31, 2013 13:30:21 GMT -8
During 303 last Saturday, Stan suggested I consider putting some rail panels on my Sig 516. I've been using gloves, but I realize I can't really rely on them. I looked, but found so many options. I'm open to suggestions. Magpul ? Troy ? Full rails ? Smaller Magpul xt panels ? Multiple sized Troy pieces ? Would appreciate your insights and feedback.
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jvv556
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jvv556 on Jul 31, 2013 16:45:33 GMT -8
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Post by kayaker55 on Jul 31, 2013 19:28:08 GMT -8
Thanks. Do they provide the same protection as the rounder, thicker style ?
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jvv556
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jvv556 on Aug 1, 2013 8:09:12 GMT -8
I don't use gloves when I shoot and I've never had a problem.
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Post by serpenthammer on Aug 1, 2013 8:19:16 GMT -8
Covers too bulky ..ladder style ++++++++ slimmer , slicker less overall bulk ...
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Post by kayaker55 on Aug 1, 2013 15:28:09 GMT -8
Covers too bulky ..ladder style ++++++++ slimmer , slicker less overall bulk ... Thanks. Are the others that much heavier ? Are all brands the same ? |
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Post by Stan on Aug 1, 2013 20:01:42 GMT -8
I don't use gloves when I shoot and I've never had a problem. Something to keep in mind is that you don't want to accidentally damage your rails especially if you have a one piece monolithic upper. There really isn't a cheap fix if you do that. The M-4 I have in the pics on the website had two tracks that were gouged on the 12 O'clock rail because I left it unprotected...sorry tax payers...  Really the new style add-on rails are a better and lighter idea. |
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Post by kayaker55 on Aug 1, 2013 22:23:06 GMT -8
I don't use gloves when I shoot and I've never had a problem. Something to keep in mind is that you don't want to accidentally damage your rails especially if you have a one piece monolithic upper. There really isn't a cheap fix if you do that. The M-4 I have in the pics on the website had two tracks that were gouged on the 12 O'clock rail because I left it unprotected...sorry tax payers... Really the new style add-on rails are a better and lighter idea. Excellent point Stan. Rail panels are less expensive than having to replace a rail. I don't about other rails, but mine isn't cheap. When you say "new style add-on"rails, are these it ? www.shootingsupplyonline.com/magpul-xtm-rail-panels-covers-32pcs-four-colors-p-159.html |
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Post by mqd123 on Aug 2, 2013 9:37:20 GMT -8
I got one of those no name ladder type of cover on my Ferfrans from Amazon. Fit was great and looked great. But in action, not so great. I was running through some drills and must have shot 100 rounds when the rails got so hot that I could not touch it with my support hand. So, I went home and put on some Magpul Rail Panel Covers that I had lying around. I prefer the look of the ladder covers but I don't think they work as well IMHO.
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Post by kayaker55 on Aug 2, 2013 11:22:03 GMT -8
I got one of those no name ladder type of cover on my Ferfrans from Amazon. Fit was great and looked great. But in action, not so great. I was running through some drills and must have shot 100 rounds when the rails got so hot that I could not touch it with my support hand. So, I went home and put on some Magpul Rail Panel Covers that I had lying around. I prefer the look of the ladder covers but I don't think they work as well IMHO. Thanks. I saw the pic you posted of your primary rifle for SULE. I notice you have the smaller Magpul xtm panels on the sides and the ladder on top. So you removed the ladder panles from the top rail and replaced them w/ xtms ? You prefer the xtms over the one piece ? That's what I'm coming down to. Full magpul rails vs. the smaller panels. I'm assuming the smaller xtms allow for more flexibility in terms of adding anything to the rail. |
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jvv556
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jvv556 on Aug 2, 2013 22:28:06 GMT -8
I don't use gloves when I shoot and I've never had a problem. Something to keep in mind is that you don't want to accidentally damage your rails especially if you have a one piece monolithic upper. There really isn't a cheap fix if you do that. I'm too much of a cheapskate to buy the highend uppers. And, I would care too much about it, if I bought one. I like plain jane uppers or build my own on the cheap. |
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Post by Stan on Aug 3, 2013 10:45:49 GMT -8
Something to keep in mind is that you don't want to accidentally damage your rails especially if you have a one piece monolithic upper. There really isn't a cheap fix if you do that. The M-4 I have in the pics on the website had two tracks that were gouged on the 12 O'clock rail because I left it unprotected...sorry tax payers... Really the new style add-on rails are a better and lighter idea. Excellent point Stan. Rail panels are less expensive than having to replace a rail. I don't about other rails, but mine isn't cheap. When you say "new style add-on"rails, are these it ? www.shootingsupplyonline.com/magpul-xtm-rail-panels-covers-32pcs-four-colors-p-159.htmlThe new KeyMod Interface System...AKA all your 1913 mil-spec picantinny rails are belong to us now! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KeymodKeyMod is the name given to a universal interface system for firearm accessory components in an effort to establish a system superior to the MIL-STD-1913 accessory rails currently in use. The concept was first created by VLTOR Weapon Systems of Tucson Arizona and released through Noveske Rifleworks of Grants Pass Oregon before being published in the public domain for adoption by the entire firearms accessory industry.[1] The name, KeyMod, was coined by Eric Kincel (then working for VLTOR Weapon Systems) following the naming trend of other VLTOR accessories with the suffix 'Mod' meaning modular, and 'Key' being a reference to the key-hole profile of the mounting slots. Description: KeyMod is an open-source design released for use and distribution in the public domain in an effort to standardize universal attachment systems in the firearm accessories market. The KeyMod system consists of two parts. The KeyMod slot, and the KeyMod nut. The slot is distinctive with a larger diameter through-hole combined with a narrow slot. The slot is chamfered on the backside while the through hole is sized for clearance of a quick-detach sling swivel (approximately 3/8" diameter). The nut is stepped and the larger diameter end is chamfered around 270 degrees of its diameter. The angled face created is meant to interface with the chamfer on the backside of the KeyMod slot. The full diameter is left intact to create two flats on the nut which align the nut to the slot, and allow it to be indexed to the accessory as well as to the KeyMod slot. This eliminates the need to align the nuts to the holes prior to accessory installation as well as the need for tools to tighten the screw/nut. In most accessories, the screw is swaged after assembly to ensure that it cannot be backed out of the nut. This prevents loss of small parts (screws, nuts or other small parts used in the assembly of the accessory). The spacing of the holes is critical and is based on MIL-STD-1913 spacing to allow the greatest modularity with existing accessories. The KeyMod specifications call out a "recoil lug" on the accessories which is intended to interface with the larger through hole portion and resist slippage of accessories during counter-recoil. The combination of the angled interface of the nut to the KeyMod slot and the recoil lug to the through hole make for a very strong attachment point which will not slip under harsh recoil or counter recoil. It also provides for an excellent return-to-zero when removed and re-installed. |
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Post by serpenthammer on Aug 7, 2013 16:00:42 GMT -8
Bought a pack of rail ladders at a local gunshow can't remember if it was Ontario or Costa Mesa for $12 bucks...works fine and great ran thru the paces ...and haven't lost integrity , pliability and works as advertised.
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